Don Det: The Ultimate Guide to Laos’ Backpacker’s Paradise

Tucked within Si Phan Don, which is Lao for “4,000 Islands,” lies the small, sleepy paradise of Don Det. Adjacent to the Mekong River, this little utopia is completely devoid of cars, completely full of hammocks, and the absolutely perfect place to relax, unwind and just… live.

It’s a far cry from the urban cityscape of Komtar in Penang, Malaysia– but that’s exactly WHY travelers seem to love this island: it’s a much-needed break from the hustle and bustle of Southeast Asia‘s lively cities. 

While Laos is known for Southeast Asia’s party destination Vang Vieng and the unreal colors of Kuang Si Falls up north, Don Det and its twin island Don Khon have remained a bit of a secret in plain sight.

Maybe some find it too difficult to get to, or choose to forego it in favor of thriving nightlife, but for whatever reasons Don Det is ignored, it shouldn’t be!

Comprised of a mixture of hostel bungalows and rural villages, this 4 km long island is a backpacker’s paradise- perfect for both solo female travelers and couples alike! 

This Don Det Travel guide gives you everything you need to know about backpacking and straight relaxin’ on Laos’ best-kept secret.

The Ultimate Guide to Don Det

Where is Don Det?

Don Det is a river island in the most southern part of the country that should definitely be on your Laos travel guide. The small island is actually a part of Si Phan Don, which is a group of 4,000 river islands.

Though that may sound like a lot, many of those are small and thus uninhabitable by anything but small animals. Pakse is the closest city to Don Det, and the closest non-island town is Nakasang.

Don Det is also connected to a larger island, Don Khon, via a small bridge. All of the 4000 Islands lie in the Mekong River.
 

Best time to Visit Don Det

Don Det and the 4000 islands of Laos, like most of Southeast Asia, are hit hard by the monsoon come August, and stays pretty wet until at least November. In Fall 2018, southern Laos was pummeled by serious flooding, which even led to some evacuations.

So generally speaking, the best time to visit would be in the winter, with that sweet window of cloudless blue skies and pleasant temperatures open from around December – April/May.

Can’t make it during the winter? Fear not! We actually visited in early July and saw several days of sunny, warm weather- out of 7 days, only one was a washout.

How to get to Don Det

By plane + bus:

Plane tickets in Laos or to Laos are FAR from cheap… or so we thought! While Lao Airlines is pricey (over $100 from Luang Prabang to Pakse), the lesser-known, small airline Lao Skyway is not to be missed.

For a bit over $30, save yourself the struggle of a 12+ hour bus ride and instead take the 45-minute flight from Vientiane to Pakse, which is the jumping-off point for the 4000 islands. 

Based on the afternoon flight time of the route, you’ll likely have to stay the night in Pakse. Unlike other parts of Laos, Pakse is not very touristy- during our layover we didn’t see a single other foreigner around town. Many guesthouses dot the main strip – check prices in person to see which is cheapest.
 

What to do on Don Det

While it’s easy to laze your days away on a hammock (and definitely recommended), this slow island has more to offer than just eating and swinging! Don Det is definitely the type of place where you’ll actually read that book or Kindle that you had on your Southeast Asia packing list.

A lot of these activities are actually on Don Khon, another member of Si Phan Don that’s connected to Don Det by what’s known as the French Bridge. While some reports exist of having to pay to cross the bridge, in July 2018 this luckily wasn’t the case.
 

Don Det is one of the few places without even a single car, and while most of SE Asia is filled to the brim with motorbikes, even those are hard to find here.

The best way to get around? Good, old fashioned bicycles. Easily rentable for 10,000 kip ($1.20!) this is by far the best way to see the island.

Coast along the dirt paths and find yourself immersed in a sea of villages and farmlands! While the bikes aren’t the best quality for the rocky roads, I find them to be the most relaxing and fun way to get to know a place.

I would recommend avoiding riding at night, as there are no street lights on either Don Det or Don Khon and boy does it get DARK.
 

Don Det: Know Before You Go

While the 4000 Islands are a beautiful travel destination and a great backpacker’s hub, it’s first and foremost home to many Lao people. Respect their land, their space and be friendly.

How would you feel if your island got bombarded by tourists and westernization? While tourism definitely provides some economic relief, that can’t completely negate the negative impacts we cause.

There are no ATMs on Don Det or Don Khon and everything is dependent on cash, so make sure you stock up in Pakse or Nakasang before you head over!

Cell phone service (Lao Telecom) isn’t the best, and wifi can go out or be unpredictable. (Hint: A great opportunity for some digital detox)

Frequently Asked Questions About Don Det

1. What Are The Best Places Plus With Tours In Don Det?

   These places are best for tours in Don Det:
   VIENTIANE HIGHLIGHS (5DAYS)
   LAOS HIGHLIGHTS (10DAYS)
   LAOS-GREEN ESCAPES (7DAYS)