When draft beer costs 7 cents: A German tourist's memories of Hanoi in early 1990s

German tourist Hans-Peter Grumpe recalled Hanoi between 1991 and 1993 as a tranquil, pre-urbanization city where VND2,000 (US$0.07) draft beer was commonplace and streets retained their old-world charm.
When draft beer costs 7 cents: A German tourist's memories of Hanoi in early 1990s

Outside the Hanoi Opera House in 1991.

Hans-Peter visited Hanoi three times from 1991 to 1993, describing the capital as "the most beautiful city in Vietnam."

He recalled Hanoi in the early 1990s as a peaceful city with a slower pace of life than Ho Chi Minh City and an abundance of colonial-era architecture.

"I often explored the city on foot or by cyclo and had many memorable encounters with local people," he said.

When draft beer costs 7 cents: A German tourist's memories of Hanoi in early 1990s

The German tourist spent considerable time wandering through Hanoi's Old Quarter, exploring its narrow streets and taking in the lively sidewalk dining scene.

He was particularly struck by the abundance of sidewalk eateries, where locals gathered to eat, drink and chat. Bia hoi (fresh draft beer) stalls were ubiquitous, with customers sitting on small stools around low tables and sipping the pale beer from hand-blown, pale-green glass cups, creating a vibrant street atmosphere.
 


 

At the time, a glass of bia hoi (fresh draft beer) cost between VND1,600 and VND2,000. The beer was poured straight from kegs kept cool with large blocks of ice.

"It's a fantastic refreshment for a climate that is hot, humid, and rainy," he said.
When draft beer costs 7 cents: A German tourist's memories of Hanoi in early 1990sTrang Tien Street, leading to the Opera House, with little traffic—mostly bicycles and cyclos.
When draft beer costs 7 cents: A German tourist's memories of Hanoi in early 1990s
O Quan Chuong Street more than 30 years ago.

In 2006, Hans-Peter began sharing a series of photographs of Vietnam online.

Many recognized acquaintances in the images and were touched to see familiar street corners and scenes that had since disappeared.
When draft beer costs 7 cents: A German tourist's memories of Hanoi in early 1990s
A corner of Lo Duc Street in 1991, lined with rows of old houses.

During his visits to Hanoi, Hans-Peter stayed at the home of a professor from Hanoi University on Lo Duc. The professor had studied in East Germany and had also lived in Switzerland.

"Since his salary—equivalent to only about $10 a month—was lower than that of an industrial worker, the professor rented out several rooms in his home to foreign guests to earn additional income," Hans-Peter said.
When draft beer costs 7 cents: A German tourist's memories of Hanoi in early 1990s
A man provides typing service right on a street in Hanoi in the early 1990s.
When draft beer costs 7 cents: A German tourist's memories of Hanoi in early 1990s
A shop painting signs by hand on Hang Da Street.
When draft beer costs 7 cents: A German tourist's memories of Hanoi in early 1990s
Barbers on Quang Trung Street, between Ba Trieu and Tran Quoc Toan streets in Hanoi, in 1991.

Following the Doi Moi reforms, the area became home to numerous sidewalk barbershops, serving as a familiar gathering place where locals could make a living.

The barber street gradually disappeared in the early 2000s as Hanoi underwent urban renewal and expanded its transport infrastructure.
When draft beer costs 7 cents: A German tourist's memories of Hanoi in early 1990s
Hoan Kiem (Sword) Lake was the place where Hans-Peter spent the most time connecting with Hanoians of all ages.

He saw people reading, couples relaxing on benches and crowds gathering around chess games, while hospital staff nearby often took breaks over tea.
When draft beer costs 7 cents: A German tourist's memories of Hanoi in early 1990s
Dilapidated old houses were demolished and replaced by new buildings.

Hans-Peter's photographs were featured in the permanent exhibition space at the Hanoi Old Quarter Cultural Exchange Center when it opened in February 2015.

After more than three decades, Hanoi is now one of the leading tourist attractions in Southeast Asia.It has been named among the world's 50 most beautiful cities by U.S. travel magazine Condé Nast Traveler.

The capital welcomed 5.31 million international visitors in the first seven months of this year, an increase of 25% year-on-year.


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