Dong Ngac: Hanoi’s Village of Scholars

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Discover Dong Ngac, Hanoi’s 1,000-year-old "village of scholars." Explore its historic temples, ancient homes, and rich academic heritage just 30 minutes from the Old Quarter.
Tucked away in the northern suburbs of Hanoi, Dong Ngac is a 1,000-year-old village often referred to as the “village of scholars.” Steeped in history and brimming with academic heritage, Dong Ngac stands as a serene reminder of Vietnam’s cultural and intellectual traditions, largely untouched by the rapid modernization that has reshaped many of the capital’s ancient villages. For those looking to explore a hidden gem just 30 minutes from Hanoi’s Old Quarter, Dong Ngac offers a peaceful escape, filled with history, architecture, and stories of scholarly achievement.

Preserving the Past
While Hanoi has grown and modernized rapidly over the past two decades, many of its historic villages have either disappeared or been transformed to the point where their original character has been lost. Dong Ngac, however, has retained much of its old-world charm, making it a must-visit for those interested in exploring Hanoi’s less-traveled paths.

Marked by pretty stone gates, the village is lined with French-Vietnamese buildings and narrow lanes that transport visitors back in time. Locals go about their daily lives beneath the shade of conical hats, while children play in the courtyards of the 17th-century Tu Khanh Temple, a centerpiece of the village.

Tu Khanh Temple: A Sacred Sanctuary
One of Dong Ngac's most notable landmarks is Tu Khanh Temple, which spans over three hectares and features gardens, courtyards, ornate pagodas, and stately pavilions. The temple is constructed primarily from dark ironwood, with intricately carved eaves and steep, terracotta-tiled roofs. Built in the 1650s, the temple exudes a sense of calm and tradition, making it a perfect reflection of Dong Ngac’s spiritual and scholarly heritage.

Within the temple’s grounds, visitors are greeted by a striking stone statue of a crane standing on the back of a turtle—a powerful symbol in Vietnamese culture. Turtles, revered in local mythology for their representation of longevity and success, are icons of Hanoi’s historical and cultural resilience. This statue is one of over 50 stone and metal monuments scattered throughout the temple complex, alongside brass bells from the 19th century and steles dedicated to both Buddhist deities and the village’s scholarly figures.

A Legacy of Academic Excellence
Dong Ngac’s reputation as a village of scholars is well earned. Despite its small size—just one square kilometer and home to roughly 1,000 residents—the village has produced an impressive number of academic luminaries. Throughout its history, Dong Ngac has been home to dozens of doctors of literature and scholars who have significantly contributed to Vietnamese intellectual life. Among its most notable figures are Pham Gia Khiem, Vietnam’s Deputy Prime Minister from 1997 to 2011, and Hoang Tang Bi, a prominent writer and social activist in the early 20th century.

The tradition of academic achievement is deeply embedded in the village’s identity. Royal awards for scholarly excellence, dating back to the Le Dynasty (1428-1788), are proudly displayed throughout the village. Additionally, symbols of books are carved into the old stone gates at the entrances to the village’s four hamlets, reflecting the community’s long-standing reverence for education.

Even today, families in Dong Ngac continue to place a high value on academic success, competing to raise the next generation of outstanding students. This commitment to education is part of the village's ongoing cultural legacy.

Architectural Splendor and Village Life
As visitors walk through Dong Ngac, they will encounter almost 100 historic homes, some of which date back to the early 1600s. The intricate woodwork and stonemasonry of these homes captivate anyone strolling through the village’s narrow lanes. Friendly locals often greet passersby with smiles and offer traditional treats like lotus tea and Banh Gio rice dumplings, two of the village's specialties.

At the heart of the village lies the Dong Ngac Communal House, a large complex that has been the central hub of village life for nearly 400 years. Designed to resemble the head of a dragon when viewed from above, this sacred space serves as a place for locals to gather, worship, and honor the Buddhist gods and their scholarly ancestors. The ironwood prayer hall symbolizes the dragon’s skull, while the two water wells represent its eyes, adding to the mystical feel of the space.

The communal house also houses a priceless collection of Le Dynasty artwork, showcasing themes of agriculture, commerce, fishing, and literature—key aspects of Vietnamese life throughout history.

Visiting Dong Ngac
Dong Ngac is located in the northern suburbs of Hanoi, about a 30-minute taxi ride from the city’s Old Quarter. It offers an enriching cultural experience far removed from the usual tourist circuit. Visitors can immerse themselves in the tranquil surroundings and gain insights into Vietnam’s scholarly traditions and village life.

As part of a trip to Dong Ngac, travelers can also visit nearby attractions, including the historic Phu Tay Ho Temple and Van Nien Pagoda, both located on the shores of the scenic West Lake.

Conclusion
Dong Ngac is a village where Vietnam’s history, culture, and academic heritage converge. With its ancient architecture, scholarly tradition, and deep cultural significance, the village offers a unique glimpse into a world that has remained largely unchanged for centuries. For visitors seeking an off-the-beaten-path experience in Hanoi, Dong Ngac is a hidden gem waiting to be explored.

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